Argelès, the Retirada, the Spanish Civil War and World War Two
1936-39 - The exodus begins
From the beginning of the Spanish Civil War in 1936, thousands of republicans fled from Franco’s invading armies over the Massana Pass and through La Perthus to France for refuge, until 1939 when the Spanish Republican army retreated from Barcelona to Girona and Figueres and then onwards into France.
This retreat is popularly known as La Retirada, a military term for retreat, and applies to both civilians and soldiers alike.
January and February 1939 – The Retirada begins
Tens of thousands of people gathered at the border, where French authorities first opened the gates to women, children, the elderly and wounded on 27th January 1939.
Then, on 5 February, the French government allowed men and military personnel.
By the end of 1939, approximately 500,000 people crossed into the Pyrénées-Orientales.
The overwhelmed French authorities first created makeshift camps on the beaches, particularly at Argeles, and then the beaches were fenced off with barbed wire and patrolled by French soldiers. But, in reality, when most of the refugees arrived in February 1939, the found just sand and no tents in freezing and windy conditions.
An observer wrote at the time:
“The tidal wave coming from Spain swept across the border posts, drowning French civilians and soldiers alike... It spread out in long columns, scarcely guided, surging like waves in every direction. Spanish guards, soldiers and officers of various French forces ignoring the Catalan or Spanish languages, seemed lost for words. These waves of destitute individuals wandered aimlessly as though in a nightmare, dragging their weary bodies until they could drop their burdens. The unfortunate refugees crowded into the camp, wandering forward with trust only to find a crowd, freezing cold, and a handful of under-equipped soldiers.”
After just a week, the Argeles camp became overcrowded and the government opened two new camps on the beaches of Saint-Cyprien and Barcarès.
Between February and June 1939, over 100,000 refugees passed through the camp at least 4000 people died at the camp.
How did people live on Argeles Beach?
During the initial weeks, the refugees sheltered themselves from the cold as best they could with almost no sanitary facilities or drinkable water available. But, the refugees gradually built their own barracks. Eventually, a school, a library, sewing corner and chapel was built.
There are some examples of locals trying to help the refugees, such as the case of Marguerite Malié, a 72-year-old woman, who tried to smuggle bread to the children living in the prohibited zone, but was caught and sentenced to 15 days in prison.
Women and children shared the same block and men occupied their own block with twenty people sharing each hut.
On the northern side, most of the camp was allocated to civilians, former volunteers of the International Brigades and the hospital.
To the south, blocks were allocated to the infirmary and soldiers. This part of the camp was divided by a path that the internees nicknamed "La Rambla".
How big was the Argeles refugee camp?
The camp at Argelès-sur-Mer stretched for 1.5 km from the pine woods to the Ribera river and was divided into two sections by a water channel called "the Tamariguer".
October 1940 – the Argeles Camp is flooded
Due to heavy rains and storms, much of the camp was washed away and several people lost their lives and the camp had to be rebuilt by the refugees.
1940 & 41– The French Vichy regime sends some refugees to North Africa
Following the outbreak of the Second World War, under the Vichy Regime, the camp became a "reception camp" for so-called "undesirables" including Jews and Roma people.
On account of their communist and anti-fascist beliefs, a number of the international and Spanish brigades were given the choice by the Vichy Regime: join the French Foreign Legion or be deported to forced labour camps in North Africa, whilst others were handed over to Franco’s Spain or interned in Nazi concentration camps. Some Republican fighters managed to join the French Resistance or Free French Forces.
At these labour camps in Africa, such as those at Djelfa and Kenadsa in the Sahara, conditions were brutal and internees were subjected to forced labour, including road building, quarrying and agricultural work, often in extreme desert heat with inadequate food, water and medical care.
On 23rd March 1941, the women of the Argeles camp staged a rebellion to protest the transfer of the International Brigades to North Africa and broke through the barbed wire and stormed into the men's camp leading to numerous clashes.
End of 1941 – The Argeles camp is closed
By the end of 1941 or 1942 (reports vary), the camp was officially closed and the site was repurposed as part of a youth programme, known as the "Chantiers de jeunesse", under the Vichy regime.
By the end, at least 220,000 internees had passed through this camp.
Although the physical camp closed in 1941, the suffering and displacement caused by the Argelès camp had lasting effects, particularly for the Spanish Republican refugees who were later deported, forced into labour or imprisoned elsewhere.
1999 - Mémorial du camp d’Argelès-sur-Mer is opened
This brilliant museum all about the Retirida was opened in 1999 by the historian, Grégory Tuban, to tell the story of the camp and its people. I recommend all of you to visit.
The Mémorial du Camp d'Argelès-sur-Mer is open from Tuesday to Saturday, with the following hours:
Morning: 10:00 AM – 1:00 PM
Afternoon: 2:00 PM – 6:00 PM
Please note that the memorial is closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Do double check these dates before you travel there in case it’s changed.
Mémorial du camp d’Argelès-sur-Mer Address:
26, Avenue de la Libération, Argeles
Website: www.memorial-argeles.eu
2023 – Memorial placed in Argeles
In February 2023, Argelès-sur-Mer commemorated the 84th anniversary of the Retirada with a Memorial stone placed in Argeles beach and the town hosted a series of events, talks, theatrical performances and film screenings.